| One of the best things to happen to surfing did, however, happened in 1973, when surfer Jack O'Neill invented the leash, or leg rope. |
| It came across as something of a head scratcher, like a grouchy surfer getting territorial over an epic swell. |
| His sister jumped in to save him only to be left struggling in the raging sea as the surfer tried to hang on to her. |
| But Johnson is not quite the easy-breezy surfer dude caricature that you might imagine him to be. |
| He was in his forties with curly salt-and-pepper hair and was wearing a surfer shirt. |
| If you want to get close to the best British female surfer, you must brave the waves. |
